Baja Review A community newspaper serving Ensenada, Valle de Guadalupe, and Rosarito in Northern Baja California
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Just on the outskirts of Ensenada, a mere 35 kilometer drive is the extraordinary natural beauty of La Bufadora. Located on the Punta Banda peninsula it is one of the world’s largest marine geysers, also known as a blowhole. The latter is rather an apt name as the enormous spout of water shoots up into the air, much like a natural Bellagio fountain! The natural phenomenon is caused by the waves breaking against a cave found at the bottom of the cliff. Air is forced into the caves through the actions of the waves and when the water naturally recedes, the trapped air and water escape with a giant whoooosh out of the top. Spectators can witness vertical sprays of up to 30 meters! Mostly the spouts are of a smaller height, but with sprays occurring every 15-20 seconds it is a spectacle that cannot be missed.
We stumbled across this gem by complete accident. Sitting enjoying our morning coffee at our little campsite, we were baffled by the amount of vintage and cool cars driving by. Most were in immaculate condition and all were very intriguing. Curiosity eventually killed the cat and we jumped in our own car to follow.
The geyser itself is not the only thing worth seeing along the way. The drive from Ensenada is beautiful. The winding round curls around the mountains with the view one way to the endless sea and the other towards magnificent mountains, somewhat odd scenery for Mexico’s reputation. At parts the road is bumpy, our 4WD had no problem, but hold on to your hat if you travel on the bus! Parking is available, safe and secure for only a few pesos – we even had such confidence in the friendly parking attendant that we left the door tops of our vehicle (nothing valuable left inside of course).
We immediately noticed the car show – how could we not, rows and rows of vehicles lined up on display with their proud owners sipping cold Tecates.
It actually took us while to figure out why there were so many tourists here, they couldn’t all be interested in the car show could they? You see, you don’t see the geyser immediately upon arrival. Oh no, you must first walk the cliff top promenade dotted with merchants selling everything under the sun. It’s an extraordinary mix of souvenirs, food and drink – jewelry, tacos, clothing, ceviches, candy, trinkets, pina coladas served in fresh pineapples, fresh seafood and churros. Try a few samples on your way and if you buy anything, don’t forget to haggle a little. Continue to the end of the promenade where you will find a gathering crowd. The crowds can make it difficult to get close to the edge and experience the full force of the geyser, but gently push your way through. The relatively new viewing platform has allowed for a greater number of spectators, and you might even be able to time a selfie with the gush of water in the background. It’s an incredible way to cool off on hot day. Having seen the nautical eruptions several times, wander back along the promenade for a bite to eat. There are plenty of stalls serving take out tacos, but we dined in a small restaurant with views of the enormous Pacific stretching out in front of us. Nothing says Mexico (and Ensenada) more than fish tacos, ‘dos pescado tacos por favor’ has easily become one of our most used phrases and the results have never failed us. As you continue back to your car or waiting bus don’t forget dessert, some of those tasty churros!
