We stopped in the lovely town of Mulege (pronounced moo-la-hay) for a coffee. What started out as a much-needed coffee with the added bonus of homemade cakes and pretty decent WiFi, turned into an unscheduled two week stay. Mulege is a quaint town situated on the east coast of Baja, at the north end of the Bay of Concepcion. There is a large American population, most of which are retirees who spend the winter months here, affectionately known as ‘snow birds’. We were given a recommendation of a campground conveniently and idyllically situated part way between town and the beach.
There is something magical about Mulege, in fact many people intending to travel the length of the Baja often end up calling Mulege home, for at least a few weeks anyway. We were instantly drawn in. The town is a delightful mix of local Mexicans and tourists, none of its quintessential charm has been lost, even with the influx of foreigners. Tasty taco stalls line the streets, the local supermarkets offer traditional delicacies at reasonable prices (even for the Baja). For fishing enthusiasts, Mulege is heaven. We went snorkelling and spear fishing, fished from the rear of a boat, tried our luck with a rod from the shore, and even took a leaf out of the book of the locals and sampled the hand line – they are far more proficient and artful than us! However, there are literally plenty of fish in the sea to provide us with enough to cook our own fish tacos, always washed down with an ice cold Pacifico of course!
There are local markets under the bridge, delightful swimming spots dotted along the coast and a terrific view from the lighthouse if you fancy the hill climb. A small restaurant in town is known for its delicious pulled pork on Saturdays and if you drive a little out of town on a Sunday you will find a friendly local with impeccable English speaking skills selling barbecued chicken, with all the trimmings. If you are lucky the carnival will be in town, full of rides, bright lights churros and fairy floss. The family friendly atmosphere of locals is something that can be hard to come across in other, more popular, tourist destinations along the Baja.
For us, Mulege provided the perfect combination of local, untouched Mexico with plenty of English speaking company. The tourists and locals go about their daily business side by side, both extremely appreciative of what the other has to offer. Mulege has left a special mark on our hearts and will forever be a place we return to each time we travel the Baja.